KeithInIndonesia: If you are not living on the edge you are taking up too much space

I'm just back on solid land after 8 days on a dive boat in the middle of the Flores Sea. The route circumambulated the Komodo Natl. park, a huge area over 2000 sq km near Timor, some 1000 km east of Bali. The boat, called the Jaya is a wooden sailboat made in Indonesia that spends half the year in Timor and the rest of the year in the Similin Islands of Thailand. The crew are all from Sulawesi, and came from long lines of fishermen and pirates (literally their ancestors used to pirate Dutch boats coming to and from the Spice Islands), and they have a bit of pirate still in them). This was not a luxury cruise, but a bunch of hard core scuba nuts with a big boat. The dive crew, on the other hand was made up of English, Scottish, Australian, and Hungarian dive masters who all knew the waters well. They are all in their late 30s and spend their lives chasing the best diving in the world. Like nomads with a wetsuit and mask. They are all. Very accomplished divers who travel all over the world. I felt really fortunate to find them. The diving was wild, and probably some of the best in and ocean. Every day we dove with dozens of White tip sharks, giant Manta Rays, and literally billions of fish. There were so many fish that at times it was like being in an overcrowded aquarium. It was not for the feint of heart either. On an average dive we could go down to 15-25 meters and then swim into the current. only to get sucked along the tops of the reefs at 4-6 knots, literally flying by and with the marine life. The strong currents carry massive plankton with brings the fish, and the fish bring the predators. Some of the most beautiful things were not the largest, though, with tiny marine animals like nudibranches (soft sea slugs) and lots of other little critters. Granted, it was a bit tough to see them while being pulled along by the currents.

Oh yes, and the title of this blog is the living philosophy of Shannon, probably the best and most fearless diver I have ever met, and who I had the pleasure of spending 18 hours under the sea with. He has suggested that I next dive the reefs off the coast of Cape Town, South Africa, where you can dive the deep currents where he saw over 100 hammer head and tiger sharks in one 50 min dive.

Shannon's dive briefings, before each dive mapping the site, the currents and emergency plans. Dingies circled overhead on each dive incase anyone got separated and had to surface alone in the currents.

an early morning (6:30am) dive briefing before castle rock.

The Jaya at full sail. Most of the time the conditions were not right for sailing, so we motored through the islands.

Coming back from the coast in rough seas.

The dive deck on the boat. It is out filled for about 16 divers

The only place on the boat to hang out in the shade.... for 16 people for a week. Luckily we were all exhausted most of the time from the diving.

Calm seas and hot sun were sometimes the rule, though hot hot was always happening. At night it was cold, this being winter in the Indian Ocean.

Castle Rock, a typical dive site. We would dive along the submerged landforms and over the reef. The Flores Sea has some of the highest diversity of marine life on the planet.

P' Nok, our Thai cook, was always bringing up tasty and spicy dishes. I'm not sure where or how she got all the fresh food in Labuanbajo.

Sunrise on the boat at 6:00 AM. There are almost exactly 12 hours of day and night this close to the equator.

Sunset in the harbor (if you could call it that) of Komodo Island.

IR 5,000,000 fines for violating the rules in Komodo park.

A view from Rincon Island of the bay and the Jaya in the distance.

This dragon is eyeing me up for dinner.

Resting dragon. They can eat up to 40kg of food in one meal.

It was the mating season in dragon land and this large (and full, from the looks of his belly) dragon is harassing the female, who wanted nothing to do with him. He was clearly irritated, so we kept a few meters back. The local park rangers used large sticks to whack the dragons on the head if they came too close to anyone.